The problem
You want to save money and learn your car — but YouTube skips the boring safety bits, and the wrong filter or viscosity is a real headache.
Before you crawl under anything
- Flat, solid ground — never soft dirt alone.
- Jack stands — a jack is for lifting, stands are for holding.
- Hot vs warm — oil drains better warm; burning-hot oil burns skin.
- Gloves / eye protection — oil and dirt in the eyes is a bad day.
- Drain pan capacity — know roughly how many litres your engine holds.
What you need to know at the parts counter
| Tell us | Why |
|---|---|
| Year / make / model / engine | Viscosity and filter application |
| Conventional / synthetic / high-mileage preference | Options, not lectures |
| Oil life light or km since last change | Context only |
| Drain plug washer needed? | Many engines leak without a new washer |
Filter tips (beginner-safe)
- Match the application, not "the same size as the old one" by eye.
- Lube the gasket lightly before install.
- Hand-tight plus a sensible snug — overtight cracks housings.
- If it's a cartridge filter, note the housing torque and O-rings.
What to tell Simon
Journey: Adventure Garage · first-oil-change YMM + engine: ____ Oil type preference: conventional | synthetic | high-mileage | not sure Filter style: spin-on | cartridge | unknown DIY first time: yes Also need: drain washer | funnel | gloves | rags
What we will not invent online
- Exact litres for every engine without the application
- "Any 5W-30 is fine for everything"
- Stock or price on this page
Next step
Bring year/make/model/engine to Belleville or Kingston APC. We'll help you leave with the right oil, filter, and the little bits people forget — and no shame for asking.